Symptoms
LEAVES -- Plants infected with X.
pelargonii exhibit two distinctly different
leaf symptoms. Spots may develop on the undersurfaces of infected leaves. Initially
they are small, somewhat rounded and usually watersoaked; however, within a few
days the spots develop into large sunken areas. Borders of the lesions may be round
or angular depending upon the variety of geranium attacked. The spots could
eventually reach a diameter of 1/8 to 3/16-inch, turn dark and become hard and
dry. Coalescence of spots seldom occurs. Infected leaves may drop from the
plant shortly after they die or remain soft and wilted but attached to the stem for
several days. Bacteria can enter the stem through the petioles of infected leaves and
spread to other portions of the plant, ultimately resulting in more leaf infections. If
bacteria reach the upper part of the plant, stem rots may develop. These infections
frequently result in death of the plant. Stem rot is often seen at the point where diseased
leaves are attached to the stem.
The second prevalent symptom, wilting of the leaf margins, occurs in nearly
every variety of geranium. In many cases, these wilted areas quickly die, become dry,
and form large, angular necrotic regions enclosed by leaf veins. As with leaves
showing spot symptoms, these leaves also quickly drop from the plant. Similar
symptoms could be caused by other plant pathogens or certain nutrient deficiencies,
but spotting in conjunction with leaf margin wilt is diagnostic of
X. pelargonii infections.
STEMS -- Stem rot is commonly called "black rot" by growers. The
vascular system of infected stems darkens and eventually becomes black. This
commonly occurs two to four weeks after infection. As bacteria rot through the stem,
infected tissue becomes dry, black and shriveled. If the stem is cut at the advancing edge
of the rot, yellow bacterial ooze often appears on the cut surfaces. Plants may
possess several blackened branches in addition to the main stem. Infected branches
usually become completely defoliated except for small clusters of leaves at the tips.
Blackening may also progress down the stem and affect the roots; however, rotting
of root tissue rarely occurs. Some infected plants may seem to recover and
produce branches that appear to be healthy but this new growth nearly always
becomes infected and dies.
CUTTINGS -- Infected cuttings typically fail to root. Instead they develop rot
that gradually moves up the stem. Leaf wilt and leaf spotting may be evident. The
rotted stem eventually becomes shriveled and a dull dark brown to black in color.
These symptoms are similar to those produced by damping off fungi such as
Pythium. The rot produced by Pythium
splendens (blackleg) is black, moist, and shiny
while X. pelargonii produces a dull black rot that appears quite dry. In addition,
bacterial stem rot develops much more slowly and may take as long as a month to kill
a plant. Pythium may kill a geranium cutting within a week. A distinguishing
characteristic of X. pelargonii stem rot, slimy bacterial ooze exuded from a cut stem,
is never associated with Pythium blackleg.
Disease Development
X. pelargonii is commonly introduced into the planting medium on cuttings
taken from infected plants. There is also some evidence which suggests that the
pathogen might be seed transmitted. The bacteria can spread through the rooting medium
to healthy cuttings if plants are being rooted close together and the moisture level
is high. The pathogen is frequently spread by contaminated tools and by
physical contact between blighted and healthy leaves. The greenhouse
whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) and perhaps other insects can serve as vectors
(carriers of the bacteria). Bacteria can enter a plant wherever wounds occur. Once
X. pelargonii is inside the host, it spreads through the vascular system producing
the stem rot and leaf symptoms. If infected plants are held at low temperatures
and under dry conditions, it is possible that they might appear healthy (latent
infections). When the temperature becomes elevated, symptoms normally associated with
X. pelargonii develop. Generally latent infections will occur when geraniums
are grown at or below 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Latent infections might be expected
in geraniums grown as house plants, especially when they originate from
cuttings taken in late summer or fall. The cooler fall and winter temperatures may
prevent symptom development until the following spring. Cooler temperatures
occur around plants kept close to windows, away from any direct source of heat.
Portions of diseased plants carry the bacteria to the soil.
X. pelargonii can survive in decaying tissue for extended periods of time and contaminated soil can serve as
a source of infection. Because the bacteria easily enter the plant through
cutting wounds or damaged roots, nearly every plant in contaminated soil will
eventually develop the disease. Leaf spot and stem rot can develop rapidly when plants
are exposed to high moisture levels and temperatures between 70 F and 80 F.
The disease spreads quickly through greenhouse flats and field plots when these
conditions occur. Excessive nitrogen and phosphorus fertilization and low levels
of calcium may also promote disease development.
Control
Few commercially produced geranium varieties show resistance to
X. pelargonii. The fact that some resistant cultivars have been identified as symptomless
carriers of latent infections of X.
pelargonii has reduced the effectiveness of using
resistance as a control measure. The pathogen is easily spread and there is no
effective chemical control, so exclusion and sanitation are the most practical means
of controlling the disease. A comprehensive control program for leaf spot and stem
rot of geranium would include the following:
- Start nursery and hobby stock from seed. Cuttings taken from these plants should
be removed from the upper branches. Plants must be grown in sterilized flats or
pots using fumigated or pasteurized potting mixture.
- Take geranium cuttings by breaking rather than cutting with tools. This is the
most important means of controlling the disease in commercial production, and
the technique should also be helpful for home growers. If a blade is used, it should
be dipped in 70 percent alcohol and flamed between source plants. Cuttings
should never be treated with liquid dips!
- Root cuttings in individual pots containing steam sterilized soil, if possible.
This reduces the likelihood of spreading bacteria through the rooting medium. If flats
are used, cuttings should be adequately spaced to prevent foliage contact
between adjacent plants.
- Avoid damaging roots when rooted cuttings are transplanted. Again,
transplanted geraniums should be placed in sterile pots containing fumigated or pasteurized soil.
- Observe strict sanitation procedures when handling plants and cuttings.
Hands should be washed with soap and water before and after contacting plant
tissue. Benches holding plants from which cuttings are taken should be washed
periodically with a 20 percent solution of sodium hypochlorite (one part
commercial bleach + four parts water) or any other disinfectant. Allow benches to air dry
after chemical disinfection. In addition, these benches should not be located in
areas where other geraniums are grown.
- Avoid overwatering and wetting of the leaves. If possible, do not use
overhead sprinklers to water geraniums. Instead, each pot or flat should be watered at
the soil surface. The area where plants are grown should be adequately ventilated
to keep the leaves dry. Use caution when applying pesticides to minimize
splashing from plant to plant. To prevent the possible buildup of bacterial populations
on benches, they should be of the open mesh type. Growing geraniums on solid
top benches or in soil-filled beds should be avoided.
- Do not overfertilize geraniums. High nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers should
be limited or avoided. Geraniums should be fertilized with a balanced nutrient
solution containing relatively low levels of phosphorus and nitrogen and
proportionally higher levels of calcium and potassium. When commercial production
requires forcing plants at high temperatures and high nutrient levels, the amount of time
that geraniums are held under these conditions must be kept to a minimum. In general,
it is best to avoid placing geraniums under conditions that stimulate rapid growth.
- It is important to control whiteflies and other insects that might act as vectors.
Any of the variety of insecticides currently on the market should prove effective
for most insects. Whiteflies are generally difficult to control, but pyrethrum and
insecticides containing pyrethrum derivatives such as pyrethrin work well. Yellow
stick boards are also effective. For more comprehensive control recommendations
refer to NDSU Extension circular PP-744 (Revised) "House Plants - Proper Care
and Problem Solving."
- Do not rely upon chemical control. Cupric hydroxide and copper sulfate and
certain antibiotics (streptomycin, agrimycin) have inhibited the pathogen under
controlled experimental conditions but do not perform well under large scale
greenhouse conditions. Because of the inconsistent results obtained with chemical
control measures, it has generally been concluded that they do not provide a
practical method for controlling bacterial blight.
There is no effective treatment for bacterial leaf spot and stem rot of geranium
once it becomes established. Once symptoms appear it is possible to remove
blighted leaves and branches but this treatment is merely cosmetic. If diseased plants
are found, it is best to immediately remove and destroy them. Because of the
possibility of latent infections, it is advisable to destroy all cuttings from flats
containing infected plants. Although this is impractical for commercially produced
geraniums, the method is feasible for the home grower. Since the pathogen can survive
for some time in the soil, it is important to wait one to two years before planting
geraniums in a field or home flower bed where diseased plants were previously grown.
In addition, plants grown outside are usually infected by the end of the summer, so
if these plants are to be used for indoor propagation, cuttings should be taken early
in the growing season.
Other bacteria (Pseudomonas cichorii, Pseudomonas
erodii) can cause leaf spotting in geraniums but the symptoms are not as severe as those produced by
X. pelargonii. These pathogens are not associated with wilting or stem rots. Leaf
spot produced by Pseudomonas spp. is of limited importance in geranium
production and is readily controlled by the same measures used to control bacterial
blight caused by X. pelargonii.