If you live in a rural area, have a plan to shelter in place if roads become impassable. The shelter should have everything needed, such as communication devices, food, water, electricity, fuel, medical kit and emergency transportation.

To be prepared to be on your own in general:

• Assemble supplies, such as water and food, that don't require refrigeration or cooking. Have a battery-powered flashlight and radio, plus extra batteries in case the electricity goes off.
• Have an emergency power source such as a standby generator. This is critical if you have livestock confinement buildings that need ventilation.
• Move or prepare to move important documents.
• Develop an evacuation plan and a kit containing medicine, money, documents and other items that can be grabbed during an emergency evacuation. These items could be missed in the chaos of an evacuation if not prepared in advance.

If you have a well, septic system or propane tank:

• Take steps to reduce the chance of contaminants entering your well. If the well likely will be affected by the flood, turn off the electrical power to the well and seal it by installing a watertight cap or cover. If you don't have time to install a watertight cap, cover the top of the well with heavy plastic sheeting and secure it with electrical or strapping tape or some other type of waterproof taping material. Don't use duct tape because it is not waterproof.
• If your septic system's drain field may be flooded or saturated, plug all basement drains and drastically reduce water use in the house. Don't run water from a basement sump pump into the septic system or let water from roof gutters or the sump pump discharge into the drain field.
• Plug floor drains if flooding is occurring next to the house because water can flow back through the septic system. Unbolt toilets from the floor and plug the outlet pipe, shower drains, washing machine and basement sink drain.
• Floating propane tanks are a common problem during floods. Identify large tanks with your name and address so they can be returned if they become displaced.

Specifically for farms or ranches:

• Move machinery, feed, grain, fuel and agricultural chemicals, such as pesticides and herbicides, to higher ground.
• Move motors and portable electric equipment to a dry location if possible.
• Anchor fuel and other tanks to keep them from moving with the floodwaters.
• Determine whether underground tanks are engineered to keep them from lifting out of the ground if the contents are lighter than water.
• Turn off electrical power to all buildings that could flood.
• Keep an inventory of livestock and property such as machinery and equipment.
• Prepare a list of hazardous or potentially hazardous substances.
• Move livestock to higher ground and be sure you have access to feed.
• If you have dairy cattle, develop plans for moving your cows to temporary milking facilities and learn about emergency milk pick-up services available in your area.
• Place riprap on the banks of earthen manure storage areas where flowing water may erode berms.

1-page PDF Version

A water table above the basement floor causes water to continually seek ways to enter the basement. A drainage envelope created by drain tile or pipe in porous, granular material will intercept that water and direct it to a sump, where it can be pumped outdoors. Water will enter the basement at the connection between the wall and floor and through cracks in the floor if the drainage envelope does not exist or is not functioning. Sometimes water also will come through cracks in the wall, but generally that occurs due to water infiltrating the ground from above.

Mold growth, which is a health hazard, is a concern any time high humidity or damp materials exist. Wet or damp materials will mold in one to three days, depending on temperature. Mold spores, which are like mold “seeds,” are in the air everywhere, so the only method to prevent mold growth is to keep things dry or to remove them from the damp area. Remove porous materials such as cardboard boxes, papers, carpet, rugs and clothes to keep them from becoming moldy. Chlorine bleach is a biocide that will kill existing mold, but it does not prevent future mold growth. Mold must be removed, not just killed, to eliminate the health hazard.

Many wall coverings are porous and will not only absorb water, but will wick the water above the water level. Gypsum board or drywall (Sheetrock) is very absorbent and will wick water up a wall. Remove or cut the gypsum board so none of it will be in the water. Mold grows readily on the paper of gypsum board, so controlling the humidity level in the basement is critical to minimize mold growth. Many paneling materials also are absorbent, so again cut the paneling to above the water level. If the water level is shallow, the wall can be repaired by using a tall baseboard.

Purchase a humidity gauge, and keep the humidity below 70 percent. A dehumidifier will remove some water from the air. Ventilating with dry outdoor air also will reduce the humidity level. Providing both an opening for air to enter and exit is critical. Open at least two windows for cross-ventilation. Using a fan facing to the outdoors will assist with moving dry outside air through the basement. Use fans to circulate dry air across damp surfaces to help the material dry. Isolate the basement from the rest of the house to limit humidity from the basement entering the rest of the house.

Remove water from the basement by channeling the water to floor drains or by using a skimmer pump or wet vac. Water will continue to enter the basement as long as the water table is high, so the goal is to control the water flow rather than eliminate it. Generally, the water cannot be stopped from entering the basement with products placed inside the basement because of the external water pressure.

PDF Version

Follow advice of local utilities about turning off electricity, water and gas. Local officials usually recommend shutting off the water and gas. If floodwaters are expected to be near the electrical entrance panel, call your power supplier to have the electrical supply to the house disconnected.

Shut off electricity to areas of the home that might flood. Don’t stand in water when turning off electrical power using circuit breakers or fuses. Use a ground fault circuit interrupter on any circuits if conditions are damp. A ground fault circuit interrupter can be added to an extension cord to turn off the power if an electrical fault occurs.

Move valuables and hazardous materials to locations well above the expected water level and away from dampness. Move items such as irreplaceable family photos and videos, high school yearbooks, and important documents, such as tax records, insurance policies and household inventories.

Anchor fuel tanks. A fuel tank can tip over or float in a flood, causing fuel to spill or catch fire. Cleaning a house that has been inundated with floodwaters containing fuel oil can be extremely difficult and costly. Sometimes removing the petroleum contamination adequately is impossible and the home becomes uninhabitable due to lingering petroleum vapors, which are a health hazard. Fuel tanks should be anchored securely to the floor. Make sure vents and fill line openings are above projected flood levels or seal them. Consider emptying the tank and filling it with water to reduce its buoyancy.

Plug basement floor drains. Plugging drains prevents sewage backup and prevents rapid water removal that may lead to external water pressure damaging basement walls or floor. For more information, see “Plugging Home Drains to Prevent Sewage Backup.”

Remove or prepare appliances for flooding. Shut off appliances at the fuse box or breaker panel. Freezers, refrigerators, washers, dryers and other appliances contain electric motors and components that may be damaged by water and silt. If high water is imminent and large appliances can’t be moved, wrap them in polyethylene film, tying the film in place with cord or rope. The water still will get in, but most of the silt won’t, so cleanup will be easier.

Consider removing the furnace. Shut off the gas and electricity. Disconnect and remove the furnace to where it will be out of the water.

Leave the air conditioner unless guided by a technician. The air conditioning unit contains Freon, which may settle into a basement, creating a health hazard, so it should not be removed except by a technician. Wrapping both the inside and outside units in plastic will reduce the amount of silt that may accumulate in it.

Consider removing the water heater. Shut off the electricity, gas and water to the unit before removing a water heater to where it will be out of the water.

Water pressure will break basement windows. Consider removing or opening the windows if flooding is imminent.

Water pressure may damage basement walls. If the basement walls are not constructed of reinforced concrete and/or are incapable of withstanding the force exerted by soils saturated with floodwaters, allowing the basement to fill with water may protect the walls/foundation from structural damage by keeping the pressure similar on both sides of the walls and floor. You may want to contact your city or county engineer for advice.

Remove all porous materials. Carpet and wall coverings such as drywall are much easier to remove when dry and clean. Solid wood can tolerate water, but pressed-wood products will be damaged and cannot be salvaged. Finishes don’t provide a waterproof barrier, so even finished wood materials still are porous.

NDSU Extension Agriculture Engineer Tom Scherer shares tips on getting your sump pump ready for spring and summer water.

Planning Ahead: Sump Pump Tips-- 12:07 video

Sump Pump Questions-- 2-page publication

Plugging Home Drains to Prevent Sewage Backup - 8-page publication

Planning Ahead: Plugging Household Drains -- 13-minute video

Having trouble with the video above?

• Download a version to watch with Quicktimeor ITunes

More Sandbag Resources

Filling Sandbags Poster (PDF) -- 8 1/2 X 11 poster that shows how much sand to put in each bag

Stacking Sandbags Poster (PDF) -- 8 1/2 X 11 poster that illustrates how to lay sandbags to form a strong dike

Sandbagging for Flood Protection (PDF) -- 4-page publication

For many homeowners the first line of defense against water in the basement is a sump with a pump in it. The sump may be connected to drain tile that drains the footings of the house, under the entire basement, or just the area where the sump is located. Many houses have tiling installed only around a portion of the house. The water that drains into the sump must be removed, and this is accomplished with a sump pump.

The two basic sump pump models are the up-right (commonly called a pedestal) and the submersible. Either will work well with proper maintenance.

The pedestal pump has the motor on top of the pedestal and the pump at the base, which sits on the bottom of the sump. The motor is not meant to get wet. The pump is turned on and off by a ball float. One advantage of this type of pump is that the on/off switch is visible so the action of the ball float can be easily seen.

Submersible pumps are designed to be submerged in water and sit on the bottom of the sump. The on/off switch is attached to the pump and can be either a ball float connected to an internal pressure switch or a sealed, adjustable, mercury-activated floating switch. Both are reliable but the floating switch requires a larger diameter sump. If the sump diameter is less than 18 inches, the floating switch or its cord could become entangled with the piping or pinned between the pump and sump.

Either type of pump should have a check valve on the water outlet pipe so water doesn't flow back in the sump when the pump shuts off. Water flowing back and forth can cause the pump to turn on and off more frequently than necessary and decrease the life of the pump.

Some frequently asked questions about sump pumps:

Q. How do you check or test a sump pump?

A. First, make sure the outlet pipe is not frozen shut or plugged and that it directs water away from the house. Unplug the sump pump. Remove the lid (if the sump has one) and use a flashlight to check if the sump is clean and that the pump intake is not plugged. For pedestal pumps, the intake is on the top of the pedestal in the water. For submersible pumps, the intake screen is just below the motor. Normally, the intake is visible even in water but if not, use your fingers to make sure the intake is not plugged. In some sumps, the tile inlet or inlets are near the bottom of the sump. In this case, temporarily plug the inlet or inlets. Next make sure the pump is plugged in. Then slowly pour water into the sump. Try to simulate the speed that water normally would flow into the sump. Watch the on/off float switch's action and listen to the pump. Make the pump turns on and off at least twice. If the pump doesn't sound right, fix it as soon as possible.

Q. Can you burn the pump out if the outdoor pipe is frozen shut, or will it automatically shut off?

A. All newer sump pump motors have thermal protection built in to protect the motor if the pump outlet becomes plugged. If the motor becomes too hot, a thermal relay will trip and shut off power to the motor. Disconnect electricity from the pump and let it cool down. This should take 15 to 30 minutes. Thaw out the pipe while you're waiting, then reconnect the electricity.

Q. What size pump should I have for my house?

A. There is no "correct" size. The horsepower requirement for a house is determined by the area of drainage connected to the sump, the depth to groundwater, the depth of the basement and many other factors. A 1/3 horsepower pump is satisfactory for most houses but a 1/2 horsepower pump doesn't cost that much more.

Q. Are there any problems with replacing a 1/3 hp pump with a 1/2 hp pump?

A. When used in similar conditions, a 1/2 hp pump will pump more water and lift it higher than a 1/3 hp pump. Most new sump pumps will have a chart or graph in the instructions or on the box that shows the flow versus height of lift for both sizes. The flow is usually given in either gallons per minute or gallons per hour (multiply gpm by 60 to convert to gph). The height of lift is given in feet of vertical lift. There shouldn't be any problem, but where the flow into the sump is relatively slow there would be no advantage to using the larger pump. However, in situations where water flow can become rapid, a 1/2 hp pump may be able to keep up with the flow where a 1/3 hp pump may not.

Q. Do sump pumps have filters which need to be cleaned or replaced?

A. Sump pumps do not have filters, but they do have screens or small openings where the water enters the pump. These can sometimes be plugged.

Q. Can or should you pump into a sewer drain or basement floor drain?

A. No, you should not. If you have a septic system, under no circumstances should the sump be pumped into the basement floor drain. During wet conditions, the drainfield of the septic system usually is saturated and struggling to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Adding to it with a sump pump can damage the septic system. Even if you are connected to a public sewer system, sump water should not be pumped into a floor drain except under special circumstances. Many communities have ordinances prohibiting the diversion of sump water into the sanitary sewer system during certain times of the year or during widespread flooding. Check with your municipal government to find out its rules.

Q. Where should the sump pump drain hose be run?

A. Preferably, sump water should be discharged at least 20 feet away from the house in such a way that it drains away from the house. It should not be directed onto a neighbor's lot, into window wells, or onto a septic system drainfield.

Q. Can the average person replace a defective sump pump or does it require specialized tools or the expertise of a plumber?

A. Almost all sump pumps come with a list of required tools and directions for installation. It should not be difficult for the "average" person to replace a sump pump.

Q. How big should the sump hole be? What kind of hole liner should you use? How much gravel do you put under and around it?

A. Sump holes should be about 2 feet in diameter. This allows space for the pump and associated piping and to store water between pumping events (about 15 to 25 gallons). Metal or plastic liners can be used, but plastic is easier to work with and it the material of choice. When the sump liner is installed, about 3 to 4 inches of coarse gravel should be placed in the bottom of the hole before the liner is installed. The gravel forms a solid base for the pump as well as helping to prevent mud and other debris from clogging the pump.

Q. Should the sump pump be on an isolated electrical circuit?

A. A standard 15-amp, 110-volt, three-pronged grounded electrical outlet is sufficient to handle a sump pump. A sump pump is always in or near water, so for your own safety, the outlet should be protected by a ground fault interrupter (GFI).

Q. I don’t have a sump in my basement but am concerned about water leaking in. What can I do?

A. You can push the water to the floor drain, but if water backs up in the floor drain or drains very slowly a pump is needed. Small pumps sometimes referred to as "skimmer" pumps are designed to sit on a flat surface and pump when water on the floor is only 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. They can often be used with a common garden hose. A 50-foot garden hose run out through a basement window will usually carry the water far enough away from the house. You can remove more water by taking the cover off the floor drain and placing the pump in the drain bowl -- these pumps are usually small enough to fit in the bowl. In emergencies where electric service is off, these pumps can be powered by a small gasoline generator.

Q. What is the useful life of a sump pump?

A. This is a difficult question. Some pumps have been in use for years. The answer really depends on how often and for how long they have run. Those built for the home market in the last 10 years are mostly plastic body construction with stainless steel shafts. These do not rust or corrode like earlier models and the submersible motors are sealed. Some manufacturers recommend replacing the switch and float every two years and the pump every five years. If you do not know the age of your pump but it tested OK, then buy a backup pump of the same size. Prepare the backup pump with necessary fittings so it can be installed quickly. Usually, you do not have much time when the backup pump is needed.

Q. Do I need a backup pump?

A. Many people like the security of a backup sump pump, especially if they are away from home for significant periods during the year. Backup pumps also provide peace of mind during flooding events. A backup sump pump should "kick in" when the main pump fails or a loss of electical power occurs. Many manufacturers sell backup sump pumps. The most common configuration is a direct-current (DC) pump on which batteries supply the power. The batteries are kept charged by a trickle charger connected to house electrical power. The float on the backup sump pump is positioned above the turn-on position of the main pump float. Thus, if the main pump fails, the water will rise and turn on the backup pump. Just like the main pump, backup pumps and their electrical systems need to be maintained and checked on a regular basis.

March 2009

Remedies for Homeowners

Groundwater flooding can cause many problems for homeowners. Structural damage, sewer system back-ups and damaged appliances are three of the most distressing consequences. Fortunately, there are some remedies. They vary in scope, expense and results, just as homeowners vary in their expectations and resources.

Consider Your Resources

Sound advice should be your first priority when groundwater flooding is a problem. Expertise can come from a variety of sources. Local resources include your local emergency government office, building inspectors, insurance agents (if you have appropriate insurance), county Extension agents and the Home Builders Association. All have access to technical assistance, publications and possible sources of financial aid.

Financial assistance may be available through your local emergency government office. This may also include temporary housing and crisis counseling.

a) Grants and low-interest loans may be available in cases of regional disasters.

b) Check with your insurance agent to determine whether your homeowner's insurance covers any of the damages. Groundwater, surface water and floodwater damages usually are not covered by homeowner's insurance. Your agent may have a rider available for groundwater flooding. Homes located in floodplains subject to surface water flooding are eligible for federal flood insurance.

Contractors can help you determine the nature and extent of your damages and what remediation options are appropriate for your situation.

a) A waterproofing contractor may be able to correct the problem if you simply need to stop minor nuisance flooding.

b) A general contractor may be necessary if you have damages to your home and need more substantial repairs and corrective measures. General contractors can arrange for the services of various specialists.

Your Options

The severity and frequency of groundwater flooding will in part dictate the best solution. The following options parallel increasing severity of groundwater flooding:

Raising appliances, furniture and fixtures. In cases where groundwater flooding is a minor nuisance that amounts to little more than wet walls and small streams across the basement floor to a drain, solutions may include:

a) Raising or blocking up appliances, furniture and other items that may be damaged by direct contact with the water for an extended time;

b) Installing a false floor over the basement slab. This allows water to drain under the false floor to a drain or sump.

c) Installing a surface drainage system around the perimeter of the basement floor. This method channels water from the walls to a drain or sump for removal.

Relieving water pressure against walls and the floor. Some form of drainage is necessary when cracks occur because of water pressure.

a) If the basement or foundation does not already have drain tile installed, consider an excavation of the home exterior to allow for waterproofing of the walls and the installation of washed stone (gravel) and drain tile. Drain tile can divert water away from the house if there is a slope, or accommodate a sump pump system as noted below.

b) Internal drainage is another option if excavation is not possible or convenient. Washed stone and drain tile are installed around the interior perimeter of the basement footing. This requires subfloor installation and trenching.

c) Sump pumps are a necessary part of the internal drainage system unless the interior tile can be connected to exterior tile that will drain away from the house. Similarly, sump pumps may be a necessary part of external drain tile systems if water does not drain away from the house naturally.

Filling the basement. This option can eliminate the groundwater problem, but the trade-off is the loss of a full basement. If the groundwater level in a basement is only 1 or 2 feet, one option is to pour a new floor in at a higher level, leaving a crawl space in the basement. The original floor needs to be broken first, so that water pressure can be relieved. Fill dirt is brought in and the new floor poured. Drainage under the new floor also is recommended. In more severe cases, the basement may have to be completely abandoned.

Rebuilding septic systems and wells. If septic systems and wells have been compromised, the systems should be rebuilt following modern guidelines for high groundwater areas. There may be added expenses related to closing or removing portions of existing systems that have failed.

Raising or relocating the house. This is the most expensive option. It is the best long-term solution when the building integrity is threatened and utilities must be shut off. In some cases, it may be the only reason-able option to avoid property damages and lower property values.

Additional Resources:

Your county Extension office, local emergency management office, building inspectors, insurance agents (if you have appropriate insurance), the Home Builders Association, the Federal Emergency Management Agency

Related resource:

Ken Hellevang, Extension Ag Engineer

The large snow depth this year holds lots of water. Each cubic foot of drifted, piled or compacted snow contains 2 to 3 gallons of water. Actions taken now can minimize future water problems.

Eave-trough down-spouts should carry the water several feet from a house to a well drained area. About 2,500 gallons of water will come from a 1,000 square foot roof with one foot of snow depth across the roof. This much water may cause problems if allowed to drain next to the house.

Move snow on the ground away from the house. Snow melt water may cause a wet basement if allowed to run down along the basement wall. If the ground is sloped 1 inch per foot near the house, moving the snow just 3-5 feet from the house will reduce problems.

Examine and clean both the sump pump and pit. Test your sump pump by pouring water into the pit. Make sure the discharge hose carries the water several feet away from the house to a well drained area. Also make sure that the pipe is on sloped ground so it drains to prevent it from freezing.

Remove snow from around rural yards to minimize soft, wet soil conditions. Remember that a 20 foot diameter 10 foot high pile of snow contains about 2,600 gallons of water. Move the snow to well drained areas.

PDF Version

Many things can be done before the snow melts or before a heavy rainstorm to reduce damage to home and property. This checklist can help you prepare to reduce the severity of water or a flood on your home and family.

Home

Check your sump pump. Clean the sump pump and pit, and test the pump by pouring water into the pit. Consider having a spare submersible portable sump pump. Make sure the discharge hose delivers the water several feet away from the house to a well-drained area that slopes away from the house. If the hose outlet is too close to the house foundation or on flat ground, the water may simply recycle down through the house drain tile. Don’t run sump pump water into a rural septic system because the water may saturate the drain field. In cities, running sump pump water into the sanitary system may overload the system and cause sewage backup, plus it may be illegal.

Move valuables to higher locations. Get items such as irreplaceable family photo albums, high school yearbooks, personal videotapes, tax records, insurance policies and household inventories off the bottom shelves in the lower level of your home.

Move hazardous materials to higher locations. This includes paint, oil, cleaning supplies and other dangerous materials.

Move snow away from the house’s foundation. If the ground is sloped 1 inch per foot near the house, moving snow just 3 to 5 feet from the house will reduce problems.

Keep water out of window wells. Since windows can’t withstand much pressure, build dams and contour the ground so water will naturally drain away from the house.

Get downspouts down in place so that as snow melts they can carry the water away from the house. Using salt or a chemical to melt them free will probably damage the lawn.

Plan an escape route if certain roads or streets are known to flood easily. Where would you go if your home flooded — a local shelter, a family member or friend’s house?

Plan for pets. Pets aren’t allowed in shelters due to health regulations. If left behind, stressed pets can damage your house, and their safety is at stake too.

Assemble supplies in case the electricity goes off. Gather water, food that requires no refrigeration or cooking, a non-electric can opener, a battery-powered radio and flashlight, extra batteries.

Assemble supplies for a possible evacuation. Gather water, nonperishable food, paper plates/cups and plastic utensils, extra clothing and shoes, blankets or sleeping bags, a first aid kit and prescription medications, cash and credit cards, important phone numbers, special items for babies and the elderly.

Anchor fuel tank. A fuel tank can tip over or float in a flood, causing fuel to spill or catch fire. Cleaning up a house that has been inundated with flood waters containing fuel oil can be extremely difficult and costly. Fuel tanks should be securely anchored to the floor. Make sure vents and fill line openings are above projected flood levels. If you have propane tanks that are the property of the propane company, you’ll need written permission to anchor them, or you can ask whether the company can do it for you.

Plug basement floor drains with removable grids if sewer backup may occur. Install drain plugs available from hardware stores. One type of plug has a rubber center that expands to fill the pipe when the top and bottom metal plates are squeezed. If a commercial plug is not available, a flexible rubber ball about 1¼ times the inside diameter of the pipe can be wedged into the drain to create a tight seal. Brace the ball securely in the drain with a 2X4 against the ceiling. Hold a board or piece of plywood on the ceiling and slide the 2X4 against the bottom of the board to avoid damage to plaster ceilings. For a suspended tile ceiling, remove ceiling tiles to get access to the ceiling joists. Span a 2X4 across the two joists and wedge the vertical 2X4 between it and the ball.

Cover basement floor drains with permanent grids. Place a partially inflated inner tube around the drain, and top it with a square or two of plywood (not particle board). The plywood must be larger across than the inner tube to cover it. Brace this in place just as with the ball on the drain. Be prepared for some seepage.

Reduce flooding from other drains. Unbolt toilets from the floor and plug the outlet pipe using the same procedure as for floor drains. Shower drains can be plugged this way too. Most washing machines and basement sinks have their drain connections about 3 feet above the floor so may not overflow if the water doesn’t get that high. If necessary, these drains can be disconnected and capped or plugged with commercial plugs or braced rubber balls.

Prepare appliances for flooding. Shut off appliances at the fuse box or breaker panel. Put freezers, washer, dryers and other appliances up on wood or cement blocks to keep the motors above the water level. If high water is imminent and large appliances can’t be moved, wrap them in polyethylene film, tying the film in place with cord or rope. The water will still get in, but most of the silt won’t so cleanup will be easier.

Shut off electricity to areas of the home that might flood. Even if floodwaters are not reaching electrical outlets, the risk of electrical shock to someone working in a flooded basement is high with electric motors in the furnace, freezer, washer, dryer and other appliances. Shut off electrical breakers or unscrew fuses. Don’t stand in water and turn off electrical switches. If this must be done, use a dry piece of wood or a plastic or rubber pole to do the switching, and stand on a block of wood or a plastic crate that doesn’t conduct electricity. If floodwaters are getting close to the electrical entrance box, call the power supplier and have the electrical supply to the house disconnected. If the floor is damp but not really flooded, ground fault circuit interrupters reduce the risk of using electricity. In newer homes, interrupters can be identified by the buttons between the top and bottom outlets. They can be added to any outlet or in an extension cord to turn off the power if an electrical fault occurs.

Family

Discuss what to do in case of a flood. Plan and practice an evacuation route.

Ask an out-of-state family member or friend to be your family contact. If family members get separated during an evacuation, each should get in touch with that contact. Make sure everyone has the contact’s phone numbers.

Discuss safe emergency procedures. Teach adults and older children where service panels, water service mains and natural gas mains are and how to turn them off if necessary.

Discuss the situation with children honestly and openly. Hiding the situation from them will probably be even more stressful.

For More Information

For more details about preparing for a flood plus information about cleanup after a flood, contact your county office of the NDSU Extension Service or see www.ag.ndsu.edu/flood.

NDSU Extension Service Fact Sheet 3/10

Use commercially available drain plugs if possible. Some hardware stores sell plugs that have a rubber center that expands to fill the pipe when the top and bottom metal plates are squeezed. Other options to plug drains are listed below.

If the grid over a basement floor drain can be removed, use a rubber ball to plug the drain. A flexible ball about 1 1/4 times the inside diameter of the pipe can be wedged into the drain to create a tight seal. The pressure might be quite high if water or sewage tries to come up so brace the ball securely with a 2X4 against the ceiling. Hold a board or piece of plywood on the ceiling and slide the 2X4 against the bottom of the board to avoid damage to plaster ceilings. For a suspended tile ceiling, remove a ceiling tile or two to get access to the ceiling joists. Span a piece of 2X4 across the two joists and wedge the vertical 2X4 between it and the ball.

If the grid over the floor drain is permanent, a partially inflated inner tube can be placed around the drain. Place a square or two of plywood (not particle board) on top of the inner tube. The plywood must be larger across than the inner tube to cover it. Brace this in place just as with the ball on the drain. Be prepared for some seepage.

Reduce flooding from other drains. Unbolt toilets from the floor and plug the outlet pipe using the same procedure as for floor drains. Shower drains can be plugged this way, too. Most washing machines and basement sinks have their drain connections about 3 feet above the floor so may not overflow if the water doesn't get that high. If necessary, these drains can be disconnected and capped or plugged with braced rubber balls.

April 2009